Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh · The Eternal City
Varanasi Ghat Guide
The world's oldest living city — a complete guide to Varanasi's 88 ghats, Ganga Aarti, and spiritual immersion for 2025
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Deepak Mishra
Varanasi-born Travel Writer & Sanskrit Scholar
Mark Twain wrote that Varanasi was "older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." The city has been continuously inhabited for at least 3,000 years — older than Rome, older than Athens. It sits on the western bank of the Ganga at a bend where the river flows northward, a cosmic orientation that Hindus believe creates a vortex of spiritual energy. The 88 ghats — a cascade of steps descending from the city to the river — are the true heart of Varanasi: cremation pyres, pilgrims bathing, children playing cricket, sadhus meditating, silk vendors calling, and boatmen waiting all coexist in the same 20 metres of stone. There is nowhere else in the world quite like it.
The Essential Ghat Walk
The best way to experience Varanasi is to walk the 6.5 km ghat promenade from Assi Ghat (south) to Raj Ghat (north), ideally starting at dawn. Here are the key ghats in order:
Ghat by Ghat
- 01Assi Ghat — Southernmost ghat and the best starting point. A massive peepal tree marks the ghat where the Assi River meets the Ganga. Morning yoga and chanting classes. Sunset aarti held here too.
- 02Tulsi Ghat — Named for the poet Tulsidas who wrote the Ramcharitmanas here in the 16th century. Quiet, with a handful of devotees rather than tourist crowds.
- 03Harishchandra Ghat — One of two cremation ghats (the older one). Smaller and less crowded than Manikarnika. Photography strictly prohibited. Approach respectfully.
- 04Dashashwamedh Ghat — The city's most famous ghat and the site of the nightly Ganga Aarti (see below). Always crowded. The central hub of ghat life.
- 05Man Mandir Ghat — Features the observatory (Jantar Mantra) built by Maharaja Jai Singh II in 1710. Same king who built the famous one in Jaipur.
- 06Manikarnika Ghat — Varanasi's principal cremation ghat, burning 24 hours a day, 365 days. Up to 300 cremations daily. The most sacred point in the city according to Hinduism — to die here is to achieve moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth).
- 07Scindia Ghat — A partially submerged temple (the Ratneshwar Mahadev, tilted at 9° — Varanasi's own Leaning Tower) marks this beautiful northern ghat. Excellent for dawn photography.
Dawn on the Ganga at Varanasi — the daily ritual that has continued for over 3,000 years
The Ganga Aarti: How to Experience It Right
The Dashashwamedh Ghat Ganga Aarti is one of India's most extraordinary rituals — a choreographed ceremony of fire, bells, flowers, and chanting performed every evening at sunset:
- 01Timing: Begins at approximately 6:15–7:00 PM (varies by season with sunset). Ends around 7:30–8:30 PM. Arrive at least 45 minutes early for a good position.
- 02Best viewing spot: From a boat on the Ganga, booked in advance. The ₹200–400 per person river position gives a frontal view the bank cannot. Book at your ghat or hotel the morning of.
- 03The ritual: Seven priests in matching red and gold perform the aarti simultaneously. Each holds a large multi-tiered brass lamp (deepa), rotating it in sync to Sanskrit chants and bells. The smoke, fire, and sound on the river create an atmosphere unlike anything else in India.
- 04Photography: Permitted and highly rewarding. Shoot from the boat for the best compositional angle. Low light at dusk — use a high ISO setting.
- 05Dawn Aarti (Sub-Aarti): A quieter, equally moving version takes place at 5–5:30 AM at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Far fewer tourists. Highly recommended.
Dawn Boat Ride: The Most Important Experience
Varanasi's single most memorable experience is a boat ride on the Ganga beginning before 5:30 AM — before sunrise. Watch the city wake up from the water: lights coming on in temples, priests beginning their rituals, groups of pilgrims entering the river for their morning bath, the sun breaking over the eastern bank and illuminating the ancient western-bank cityscape. This lasts 60–90 minutes and costs ₹150–500 depending on whether you bargain. The light between 5:45–7:00 AM is extraordinary for photography.
The nightly Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat — Varanasi's most iconic ritual
The Old City: Navigating the Lanes
Behind the ghats lies a labyrinth of narrow lanes (galis) that have not fundamentally changed in centuries. Getting lost here is not a misfortune — it is the experience:
- 01Vishwanath Gali — The main lane connecting Dashashwamedh Ghat to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple (one of the 12 Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva). Lined with shops selling puja items, marigolds, and prasad.
- 02Kashi Vishwanath Temple — Hindus' most sacred Shiva temple. Rebuilt in 1780 by Ahilyabai Holkar after Aurangzeb demolished the original. The new Kashi Vishwanath Corridor (2021) has improved access dramatically. Entry for non-Hindus from the adjacent lane (check current rules).
- 03Godowlia Chowk — Varanasi's central crossroads. The food hub: try Dahi Chaat at Deena Chat Bhandar, Banarasi paan (betel leaf preparation) at any corner stall.
- 04Silk Weaving Quarters — The lanes around Lallapura and Peeli Kothi are full of working handloom workshops. Banarasi silk sarees have been woven here for 600 years. Watch weavers at the handlooms and buy directly from artisans rather than showrooms.
- 05Bengali Tola Ghat to Raj Ghat — The less-visited northern section of the ghat walk. Quieter, more local, fewer touts. Walk here on your second day when you've found your bearings.
Varanasi Practicalities
Essential logistical information:
Getting There & Around
- Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS) — Flights from Delhi (1.5h, ₹3,000–8,000), Mumbai (2h), and Kolkata (1.5h)
- Varanasi Junction station — Well-connected by express trains from Delhi (Kashi Express, 12h overnight), Mumbai (Mahanagari Express), and Kolkata
- Auto-rickshaw from railway station/airport to ghats: ₹150–300 (negotiate)
- E-rikshaws inside old city: ₹20–50 per ride
- Ghat walks: on foot only — vehicles cannot enter the ghat lanes
- Boat hire (private): ₹300–600 for 1.5-hour dawn/sunset ride (negotiate at the ghat)
Where to Stay
- Budget (₹700–2,000/night): Stops at Brown Bread Bakery guesthouses, Shanti Guest House near Assi Ghat
- Mid-range (₹2,500–6,000): Brijrama Palace (a 250-year-old haveli directly on the ghats — the finest mid-range position in the city)
- Luxury (₹10,000–25,000): Taj Nadesar Palace (a 10-acre property 3 km from the ghats); Ramada Plaza
- Pro tip: Stay within a 10-minute walk of Dashashwamedh or Assi Ghat to access dawn walks without a long commute
- Avoid the hotels near the railway station — too far from ghat life
- Book well in advance for Diwali (October/November) and Mahashivaratri (February/March) — the city fills completely
Manikarnika: Approach with Respect
Manikarnika Ghat is a working cremation site — not a tourist attraction. Families are cremating loved ones here around the clock. Photography is absolutely prohibited. Do not accept offers from strangers to "guide you" to viewpoints — this is a common scam that ends in aggressive demands for money under the guise of "donation to the burning ground." If you wish to witness cremation as a spiritual experience, approach from the river on a boat and observe from a respectful distance. Dress modestly, remain quiet, and do not stare.
"To sit on the steps of the Ganga before dawn, when the mist is still on the water and the conch shells and bells are beginning in the temples behind you — that is a silence that is also a sound. I understood for the first time what people mean when they say Varanasi changes you." — Tara Kapoor, Delhi
Watch Before You Go
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